This section completes the Aberdeenshire Coast Trail and the 50 miles was divided between two days.
Day one: Aberdeen to Stonehaven (19 miles)
Trail Date: May 30, 2024
Method of Travel: Mountain Bike
This day started a little differently. My mother-in-law had been visiting us for her birthday and I hitched a ride with her back to Aberdeen, my bike packed into the boot (tightly). I was very grateful for the ride so that I didn’t have to take the train.
We arrived in Aberdeen around noon, and I was excited to stretch my legs.
The trail from Aberdeen to Stonehaven is not straightforward. Most of the property skirting the coast is private land lined with barbed wire. While it’s legal to walk through, it not an option on my bike. In addition Aberdeen is one of the largest cities in Scotland and is infamous for terrible traffic and aggressive drivers. This is one of those areas that I didn’t feel safe staying close to the coast, nor would it be practical. Until I got away from the city.
So I decided to take advantage of the famous Deeside Way. This beautiful wooded trail follows the River Dee which cuts through Aberdeen. The tree-lined way is a welcome escape from the busy city traffic. It takes you under muralled bridges, past interesting homes with big gardens, and eventually offers views of the countryside surrounding Aberdeen.
I enjoyed the protection from the wind as well. But eventually I made it to my turning point, Peterculter.
After some sweet potato fries and a coffee at the Ploughman restaurant, I rode south towards Stonehaven on B979. It’s not ideal because it’s a 60mph road, but it’s still better than other big roads. It was a Thursday in May so I excepted a fair bit of traffic, but I lucked out. I was only passed by a few cars, all of which gave me a wide berth. Sometimes when I saw a bare patch on the side of the road, I would pull over and stop to have a drink while a car passed. I’m all about safety and I don’t like inconveniencing drivers. I guess that comes from listening to my husband complain about cyclists for years! Luckily I could sometimes switch onto a small farm road too. This kept things interesting.
Anyways, it gave me excuses to take little breaks, and my legs thanked me. It was extremely hilly. After a long winter, this was my first big ride and I could feel it! Going to the gym doesn’t beat several miles on a bike full of gear (on real hills). But the incredibly lush farms and forests, the sheep and cows, and the wildflowers kept me inspired.
Although it was only an 18-mile-day, I was exhausted when I finally arrived in Stonehaven.
The view as you approach Stonehaven from above is fabulous. I could have happily painted from up there if I wasn’t desperate for a shower and real food. I also enjoyed the very long and fast decent into town. I was flyin!
I stayed at The Ship Inn, right in the old harbour. The view from my room was great, and after a hot shower I spent time staring out at the waves. It really is a picturesque town!
After dinner I regained a bit of energy so I went for a wander around town with my sketchbook. The sun was peaking through the clouds, illuminating the wonderful harbour colours. Finally I picked a spot overlooking the line of hotels and boats to commemorate my stay.
Soon it turned chilly so I went back to my hotel room to paint the view from the comfortable desk overlooking the harbour. I really liked this blue boat.
It wasn’t long before the day’s efforts caught up with me and I was ready for bed, eager to continue the journey the next day.
Nutrition Update
The forecast for day two was sunny and much less wind which was a relief. For this trip I made more of an effort to manage my hydration and calories. A 30-mile day in the sun on hills is no joke. I learned that the hard way previously. This time around I invested in some Näak (not sponsored). I’ve seen a lot of ultramarathon and bikepackers use it and I like the idea of nutrition waffles. Who doesn’t love waffles? I’m sick of protein bars. I bought the Ultra Nutrition Chocolate Waffles and the Watermelon Ultra Energy Drink Mix. Both tasted fabulous (and that’s coming from a picky eater). I didn’t feel as bloated or gross as I normally do while consuming calories on the go. I never bonked which I attribute to the drink mix mostly. I highly recommend both! I set my timer to remind me to eat at least once an hour which really helped stay energised.
Day two: Stonehaven to Montrose (30 miles)
Trail Date: May 31, 2024
I woke early to retrieve my bike from the staff room at the Ship Inn (they were kind enough to keep it safe overnight). After a hearty breakfast I packed my bike and got started. Knowing it would be a long day, I planned a few stops along the way to paint and eat. I was on the bike by 8am, and needed to be in Montrose by 7pm to catch my train. Plenty of time right?
It’s so funny how often I think I’ll be able to cover big distances in a short time, but in reality it’s always tripled. Painting in one spot can easily eat up 1-2 hours. The whole goal of my journey is to sketch along the way, so I have to factor in much more time than I might expect.
My first stop would be Dunnottar Castle which was a mile or two away. It immediately required a steep ascent up the cliffs surrounding the harbour. Talk about a warm up!
There was a bit of sea fog and the air had a humid chill. Just perfect to cool me off after the climb. But clouds came and went quickly, creating beautiful patches of light on the green fields.
After my “warm-up” it was a gentle climb to Dunnottar Castle. I was one of the first to arrive, and felt like I had the place to myself. The dramatic cliffs rise steeply out of the sea, and the castle is set on a 160ft high promontory. To say it is awe-inspiring is an understatement. It truly is one of the most majestic sights in Scotland.
So of course I had to paint it.
Knowing I had many miles ahead of me, I only spent 30 minutes on the sketch. I then quickly packed up and walked to the castle for a self-guided tour. It costs £11.50 to enter the ruins, but it’s well worth it. The grounds are well kept and there is quite a bit to see.
I spent about 30 minutes wandering the ruins, reading all the information and learning about the history.
I finally picked a spot for another sketch of some structures. It was hot in the sun so I worked quickly. I was also well aware that I still needed to cycle over 20 miles!
So as much as I would have loved to spend more hours here, I needed to move on.
The road out of Dunnottar was rather busy as more tourists had arrived. I grabbed a coffee at the food truck and ate one of my Näak waffles which gave me a boost. I then cycled three miles to my next point of interest: the Crawton Waterfall at the RSPB Fowlsheugh.
The sound of seabirds was almost deafening as I walked along the cliff to view the waterfall. With the sun shining brightly the colors were magnificent. I instantly knew I needed to paint it, even just as an excuse to be there longer. This image was a panorama and you can see the flightpath of some birds:
The waterfall cascades down the cliff into the sea and several seabirds have colonies along the cliff. There are sometimes even puffins there but I didn’t see any.
This is definitely an area I’d be happy to explore more. It reminded me of the dramatic cliffs at the Troup Head.
After a 30 minute sketch I hopped back onto my bike and hit the road. Now it was time to make some tracks. I put my headphones in and played my favorite podcast (Plein Air Podcast) to catch up on some miles.
Along the way I was stopping to take photos and videos, and try to soak up the incredible beauty. It was all a bit of a blur.
After about 10 miles I was famished. I stopped in Gourdon, a little town with a lovely harbour. One of the few places serving food was the Quayside Restaurant. I got the halloumi tacos because why not. WOW they were amazing. But spicy. And I quickly regretted my choice of a heavy meal.
The trail out of Gourdon immediately became a dirt path. Then a rocky path. Like, insanely bumpy. I felt like a martini. Shaken, not stirred.
The track was a welcome departure from the traffic on the roads, but my stomach was complaining the entire time.
Thankfully, the track ended after 3ish miles and I could pop some Rennies to try and recover. It was a good reminder not to over-indulge before the end of the journey!
The weather had turned dark and humid. Heavy clouds threatened rain. But I had a sense of urgency, because somehow it was nearly 6pm and I still had around 10 miles to go. Easy enough, except I’m always aware of the risks of cycling. Anything can happen in any amount of miles.
I put my head down and pedaled. Well, not really- I kept my head up to see where I was going. But I told myself, just go. Let’s get to the train.
But as I neared Montrose, I remembered the border of Aberdeenshire coast was near St. Cyrus. I checked my map and noticed I was nearly standing on the border!
I cycled onto the The North Water Viaduct over River North Esk. The official border between Aberdeenshire and Angus. What a feeling!
That beautiful bridge marked the end of my Aberdeenshire coast trail journey, and the beginning of a new one. I called Wolfy to celebrate, and patted myself on the back before taking this goofy selfy.
I completed 180 miles of coast by foot and bike. A big goal I honestly didn’t know I could achieve. But that’s the cool thing about this journey. It reminds me that although the goal seems insurmountable, I can get there one step (or pedal) at a time. This was made sweeter by realizing I have completed 243 miles in total. Only 5,000+ to go! Haha.
Anyways, after my little celebration, I felt invigorated again. The trail from the viaduct to Montrose is quite lovely. It’s part of the Angus Coastal Route that goes to Dundee. This lead me through some woodland before I departed into Montrose.
Being in a busy city again was a little startling. But after I printed my ticket at the train station, I looked out of the water and the view took my breath away. It was the most peaceful calm scene. A heron fishing in the shallow waters of the Montrose Basin. The perfect ending.
On the train ride home, I used what little energy I had left to think about the last two days. So many incredible sites. A lot of hard work. And a celebration for completing the Aberdeenshire coast. I also contemplated my next area of focus. I’m leaning towards going to Inverness, except that it will be quite busy in the summer. I might need to pick a quieter section of coast. We shall see. Stay tuned!
