Burghead to Findhorn (8 miles)
Trail Date: August 30, 2022
Method of travel: Hike
Having done a short hike last time, I was looking forward to this section. It was a cool day with plenty of cloud cover, and I was keen on walking in the water. Little did I know this would come back to bite me later.
I caught a bus to Burghead and grabbed a few snacks at the Co-op before heading down onto the sand. The early morning sky was reflecting in the ripples of sand that stretched for miles in front of me. As I breathed in the fresh sea air my spirits were high.
I walked out to the water’s edge and enjoyed the sound of rolling waves – thankfully there was barely any wind and it was a truly relaxing experience.
Suddenly I found myself trapped between a small beach river and the tide. I had two options.
- Retrace my steps, losing a 1/2 mile of distance.
- Take my shoes off and wade through the river (just above ankle height).
I opted for the latter, because why not. It was a “warm” summer day. At first the water was freezing, sending shivers up my spine and numbing my feet. But soon my body acclimated and it was a beautiful feeling.
My phone’s map showed me as being out in the water, because it was high tide.
I waded through the mini ‘beach river’ trying not to step on shells or seaweed.
I suddenly grew uneasy.
Have I mentioned I’m terrified of being in deep water (the ocean especially?) Despite growing up near lakes in New York and being a really strong swimmer, if I can’t see the bottom of the water I’m in I am flooded with fear. Something about the darkness and mystery of what could be below me is utterly terrifying. My body physically reacts in fear before my logical brain can talk me out of it.
So imagine my horror when the water suddenly rose to knee-depth and the bottom became murky. I felt rocks and slimy things around my feet, and immediately started to panic. I picked up my pace and kind of jumped through the water to the shallow section again. That brief moment of panic was enough to remind me that the ocean is in charge. Give respect where it’s due.
Back on the wet sand, I enjoyed a leisurely pace, feet sinking into the soft wet sand as waves gently rolled over my toes. The light was beautiful, the temperature was perfect. Before I knew it, 2 miles had passed.
Although it was enjoyable, I started to feel an ache in my left foot and decided it was time to take a break, dry my feet, and return to the comfort of thick-soled shoes.
I walked a bit farther to pass the Millie Burn then stopped at the point adjacent to the Roseisle Forest car park. After a quick snack, I wandered up the dunes into the forest to explore – making mental notes for future visits. It turns out the car park offers public toilets, picnic areas, and even a food hut!
I ventured back to the sand, almost stopping to paint, but decided to continue in order to get a few more miles in. I was just too energetic and enthusiastic about the beach walk to sit down again!
The sun had finally come out, casting huge beams of light onto the sand. I love watching patches of light move across large expanse of sand. The tones are beautiful! I ended up sketching this later in the studio and probably will many more times.
Remember the anti-invasion blocks and bunkers from my Kingston-Lossiemouth journey? The same thing continued through Hopeman to Burghead and onwards to Findhorn. Moray is a military hotspot, with multiple bases scattered around. The Royal Air Force Kinloss base is located adjacent to this beach inside the forest. It was built in 1939 as a training facility for WWII, but active flying missions ceased in 2010.
As the tide came in, I decided to move up onto the dunes. The trail was lined with pine trees and heather, creating a beautiful rainbow of color against the turquoise sea.
After another short break, I continued onward until I reached the edge of the forest. The last two miles of the trail to Findhorn was more exposed even in the dunes. Thankfully the sudden strong winds were coming from the east, pushing me forward. My left ankle was really hurting by now, combined with the greater challenge of walking on soft sand. I could tell it was more than just a tight muscle. There was something wrong.
I slowed my pace to limp along, but still enjoying the scenery. The colors were magnificent, but the gusty wind was a bit disorienting and stopped me from painting.
I moved down onto the beach to give my ankle some more support (harder surface), but soon the tide came in too high and I was forced back onto the dunes.
But the view was better from up there, and as the sun illuminated the turquoise water I felt like I was somewhere tropical!
Before long the familiar sight of the Findhorn Beach Huts told me I had made it.
I hobbled to the nearest restaurant – The Captain’s Table and enjoyed a fresh salad.
I suddenly realized that the next bus would arrive in 20 short minutes, so I gobbled up my food and found the bus stop. Each step was agony, so I cheered myself up with a hot mocha coffee and waited for my chariot to save me.
Later I found out I had peroneal tendonitis. This has thrown off my schedule quite a bit! But my body requires healing.
That said, we leave in 7 days for our 3-week trip to America! Finally after many years we will visit my family and friends, and we couldn’t be more excited.
By the time this post goes live we should be there. Take care and see you in a couple weeks!
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