Hopeman to Burghead (2.75 miles)
Trail date: August 26, 2022
Method of travel: hike
The day started at Hopeman Beach, and this time I was doing something a little different. Rather than worry about end-time (buses, pick up, etc.) I decided to give myself total freedom to explore anything and everything that caught my interest. Wolfy had promised to pick me up any time from Burghead (what a hero!), so there was no pressure.
This section is less than 3 miles…but I ended up walking approx. 5 miles according to my Fitbit, because I explored the heck out of the rock pools, cliffs, and beaches! I felt like a kid in the candy store with an unlimited budget.
Just after Hopeman Beach the fun begins (no offense to the beach).
The water has eroded some large slabs of rock, leaving hundreds (thousands?) of sinuous mini canyons where the water swirls, bubbles, and splashes. The sound is incredible while the tide rises and fills all the little holes and pools.
So many amazing colors, shapes, and textures – an artist’s dream!
I spent a whole 45 minutes watching tiny fish dart around the pools, hermit crabs scooting along the rocks, and half-buried crabs pretending to be invisible.
After a quick sketch I continued along the trail but it wasn’t long before I stopped again as a fascinating section of cliffs rose up in front of me. Before I knew it I was walking through an arch in the cliff to one of the coolest areas I’ve seen. And the best part is that the drama was just beginning!
It’s hard to show in pictures, but the light was filtering down through the water, and there was a faint glow coming through a big rock tunnel ahead.
It was the perfect view to paint while enjoying a snack.
The tide was just starting to go out which meant if I waited long enough, I’d be able to walk over some slippery rocks and get to the big tunnel. Not recommended. But I did it anyway.
My heart pounds heavily whenever I’m near or inside a cave. This was no exception, as the sheer size of the cliffs rising above made me feel like a tiny ant.
I decided not to dawdle here, and instead retraced my steps back to the trail that took me above the cliffs. Above, the trail met a nice paved bike path which is apparently part of a coastal bike route. This would be the “easy” trail if you can’t go to the rocks below. But rather than walk on a flat paved surface, I turned off and headed back down to the shore. And boy am I glad I did.
This is not for the faint of heart, there are jagged stones, wobbly pebbles, and slippery wet rocks everywhere. There are daunting cliffs, arches, and deep dark spooky caves. But it’s EPIC and totally worth the effort.
I wandered around the arches, caves, and tunnels getting as much reference material in as little time as possible. When you are scared of caves, this is heart pounding stuff!
The cliffs soon gave way to a long expanse of low level rocks, some of which were absolutely covered in shells and jagged muscles. In the distance I could see the obtrusive shape of the Burghead Malting factory looming over the shore.
As I approached it the wind picked up, chilling my body and mood. I suddenly felt tired, and thought it would be best to finish soon. Summer in Scotland is not always warm. In face more often than not there is a chill in the air. When the winds come down over the north sea, the bring a chill from the arctic.
As I made my way into Burghead, I remembered the rule. One step at a time. My final steps of the trail led me to the lookout point at the top of Burghead near the visitor center. The late afternoon light was glittering on the water, creating a dramatic and enchanting scene.
I sat and painted for a while, watching beams of light move across the water. It was magnificent.
It was the perfect way to end a relaxing day of exploring the coast.
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