This post contains hikes from multiple days.
Portgordon to Spey Bay (3 miles)
Trail date: August 1, 2022
Method of travel: hike
I started where I left off in Portgordon and headed west. Sadly, the seals were not there to cheer me on as I stepped onto the trail at 4:30pm. But I had a good chuckle at this “leave no trace” sign and morale was high.
The 3 mile trail from Portgordon to Spey Bay meanders between farmlands and forests, running mostly parallel with the shore (about 500-800 yards) inland. The track through the farmland was lined with wildflowers and grazing cattle, and for a brief moment I thought I was in Nebraska.
The late summer colors were bright and beautiful and I could see the ocean in the distance (at first).
About half way to Spey Bay I took a short rest and decided to sketch a wee view of the cattle and capture some of the late summer colors. Admittedly I rushed through the sketch, eager to enter the forest that was a stone’s throw away.
Little did I know but Scotland was at the beginning of a heatwave. I was thankful for the shade as I stepped lightly along the forest path between tall leaning pines. My progress was halted as I noticed raspberries growing on the side of the trail, bright red and juicy. They tempted me until I looked up and saw a landfill behind the trees. Hmm..maybe I’ll pass (It turned out to be a big quarry and a recycling center).
The forest was peppered with evidence of destruction left behind by Storm Eunice which hit Moray really hard in February 2022. Walking through the fallen forest felt a bit eerie and I was half expecting to run into Shelob around each corner.
Eventually I heard the sound of cars and realised I made it to Spey Bay. The walk between the forest and the WDC Scottish Dolphin Center at Spey Bay is just a paved road between houses and my feet were aching from power-walking through the forest so I was lacking enthusiasm. But don’t worry, the boring road soon fades away as the expanse of sea opens in front of you. The Spey River empties here, creating a hot spot for marine wildlife and birds and it’s a popular dolphin and orca spotting area.
After my 3 mile power-walk I layed down on the grass next to the WDC ice-house, wishing I had started earlier so I could have enjoyed the cafe (and toilets).
Wolfy was home from work by then, so I asked him to pick me up and return to Portgordon for my car. This is the convenience of living close! I’ll miss that as my hikes get farther from home.
Spey bay to Kingston and back (5 miles)
Trail date: August 08, 2022
Method of travel: hike
I returned to Spey Bay on a perfect day – sunny but cool (although that would change by the end of the day). There was only one other car there at 9:30am, but by mid-afternoon there were cars packed in like sardines, and all the way down the road.
Anyways, I sketched the old Icehouse while I waited for the cafe to open at the WDC Scottish Dolphin Center (10:30am). By the way there are a ton of cute marine and Scottish related items in the gift shop, and it helps support a great cause.
From the WDC Scottish Dolphin Center, I turned sourthwards to follow the trail as it leaves the coast. There is no bridge over the Spey until about a mile inland. The trail passes a large field and runs through a pretty forest.
Eventually I reached a large metal viaduct, previously a Victorian railway, leading over the Spey River. I took my time crossing the old bridge, staring down into the river hoping to see some fish (I saw 2 jumps, possibly salmon, and some small ones swimming by the shore).
After the bridge the trail continues straight and is mostly shaded by trees which was a welcome relief from the sun. After about 10-15 minutes I came to a large tunnel and step up to the main road that leads to Garmouth, a quiet little village with skinny streets and old buildings.
Soon after Garmouth (heading north towards the sea again), the path takes you to Kingston, an even quieter coastal village on the other side of the Spey River. I briefly explored a beach castle made of driftwood, which must be the envy of every child in Kingston!
The whole walk from Spey Bay to Kingston was about 2.5 miles, and since I didn’t get my coffee fix yet, I retraced my steps back to Spey Bay. A bit of rain was kept at bay by my ultralight umbrella – a new item in my kit and one that I can’t live without now when hiking in summer.
I spent some time observing the birds bathing, drifting, and hunting in the river.
On the way back, I stopped on the east side of the Spey Viaduct to sketch on the banks of the river. It was the perfect temperature in the shade of the trees and the gentle sound of water on the rocks almost lulled me to sleep.
The walk back from the river to Spey Bay was uneventful, but when I arrived I was a bit shocked by how busy it was! The parking lot was packed full, and there were people and pets everywhere, even on a random Monday!
I enjoyed a nice lunch by the river before heading home.
Sorry if this episode was boring…sometimes it’s not as epic, but it is still an important part of the journey!
Watch the journey:
